The following blog was written by Gloria Chik of UrbaneBloc. See original story.

I came across a really interesting streetwear concept early in the year – bamboo designer clothing. JUZD is a local brand that has established its line based on the concept of organic bamboo fabric. Want to learn more? Jing Liu, JUZD’s Lead Designer, takes us through the ins and outs of the brand.

1. Tell us about JUZD – how could we describe it in 10 words and under?

JUZD is the planet’s first bamboo designer clothing.

2. The brand just launched in March 2008, where has JUZD taken us so far?
   

The most innovative fabric in over 50 years. The founders of a clothing store chain which now has several hundred locations felt the fabric and was very impressed. These guys have been in the industry for over 50 years and are impressed by NOTHING.

3. Where did the concept of Bamboo Clothing arise?

The reason I started JUZD was I wanted a clothing label that represented nature and the raw power the human being. There is no line out there that paid respect to nature and us as humans. With that as the founding concept I wanted a fabric that was organic and natural. And growing up in China my subconscious was imprinted with imageries of luscious, green, beautiful bamboos. With all this in my subconscious when my friend told me about bamboo fabric, it felt so right. It’s like one of those moments when you meet your soul mate or discover your true passion in life.

4. Are there any big names that we can find organic bamboo being used?

The big names that use bamboo are Roots, Lululemon, and now Affliction. Personally I really don’t like their bamboos. It’s an older generation so it’s heavy clingy, and not as soft as our bamboo. I guess I’ve been spoiled with the JUZD bamboo. No one else has the JUZD bamboo because its custom designed and milled.

5. What does street wear mean in Toronto?

There are some very fashion forward and creative individuals in Toronto but there are just too few! I remember my trips to California and New York and even China, each person is different and it was accepted. We the Toronto streetwear fashion culture is a follower, dressing mainstream with things from H&M and Zara. Nothing’s wrong with H&M and Zara but the way things are paired up is very safe. I think the Toronto street fashion culture needs to move forward and embrace individual expression.

6. How do you develop your line to be street wear oriented?

The secret is I’m just an artist looking for an outlet. I just create edgy art and it happens to fit into the street fashion culture.

7. What is your process like in developing the product?

The process is pretty extensive. Here’s the brief version.
First I come up with an overall concept for the season that dictates everything. The designs and the colours, this has to match the cultural mood and the season. Then I finalize a small palette of colours and textures to use. Followed by the shirt styles I want for that season. Now comes the most creative challenging part, I have to come up unique concept and designs that match all the elements I’ve chosen. Then I collaborate with artists all across the world that matches the theme I want. In the Fall there’s one shirt that was the collaboration of four artists! The most fun, creative, and challenging element is making sure each shirt has a unique concept that no one has ever seen before, something totally fresh.

8. The general inclination is towards using organic materials to develop our fashions – how much do you think the eco-consciousness play into the next wave of clothing design?

In one respect I think the innovation of organic fashion is very slow. Designers associate organic with nature and nature with hippies. So all this ‘organic’ clothing is designed for hippies and tree huggers. God bless them but you can’t change society by getting the 3% of the population making conscious decision on their clothing.

Where I want to go with JUZD and hope the other designers will follow is to make it compete with the major labels such as Diesel, Energie, Christian Audigier, and other contemporary labels. That’s going to be the next wave that will turn the mass market onto sustainable clothing.

9. What’s the best way to wear your line – how do you style your clothing?

Pair it up with your favourite pair of premium denim. I designed for the full shirt so it’s hard to layer it. Maybe add accessories such as a chain, scarf, or a pair of bad ass shades. But always wear the tees directly against the skin, because it feels so good.

10. Where are you looking to take the design of the line – how do you reinvent yourselves each season?

With most artists when I create a piece that very creative (and I make sure every piece is) initially I get very excited. I jump I hop and show it to everyone. Then fear hits me hard. It’s like “how am I going to outdo myself next time? Is that my last? Is that all I got? Oh no! I think I exhausted all creative possibilities.”

But there are always more creative possibilities. I take inspiration from all around me. Whenever I see a design that’s innovative and edgy I think how can I translate that to a shirt. As with the art direction I want to go back to my roots, I want to take it back to Asia.

…things are done quite different from any other country.

With this type of market demand the culture and the way things are done are quite different from any other country. In Guangzhou city I was staying with my friend Jacky. His aunt owns a factory and has a friend that produces smaller production runs which is perfect for JUZD. We headed over to the clothing market to see him.

We were dropped off right in the eye of the busy market. It was early in the morning midweek, some shops weren’t even open yet and there were already customers and foreigners lining up for a deal. Each shop is clean and well organized. Most shops are the size of a small 100 square feet tradeshow booth. Yet there were many shops and much were squeezed into each.

Quickly I noticed a consistent theme. Everything they sold were knockoffs. There were many vendors and each vendor had many items but they were the same. Knockoffs, knockoffs, and knockoffs. I felt sick to my stomach. Not only am I strongly against knock offs, I even hate it when one brand produces a similar design as another. The choice of knock offs for the day are American Eagle, Ed Hardy, Abercrombie and Fitch, and good old Nike. They don’t like it when you take pictures in the mall. I guess they are scare that you will knock off their knock offs.

…doesn’t make sense doing an original brand.

Right on top of these knock off shops were their sales office. Each of these shops had a factory. Where? Were they sweatshops? I don’t know. I did not enjoy the vibe from this area and did not want to venture to the appointment but to save face I went. Overall everything was professional and clean. From the stores to the office. And the knockoff designs were pretty good. Creative. But did not even want to go near the product to see the quality and construction. I would have given them a little respect if it was their own brand. But the market demand knockoffs. Base on the economics, for a small Chinese shop it doesn’t make sense doing an original brand.

I’ll pay the higher price and maintain my principle, thank you!

I got a quote for the production of some of the designs and the cost of shocking. Some of the cost were 1/5 of what I was paying. They wanted me to ship my custom made bamboo fabric to them for producing the shirts. As attractive as the offer was I won’t switch my factory even just for the simple fact that I can’t see JUZD line made by a knock off specialists. I’ll pay the higher price and maintain my principle, thank you!

Apartment buildings are right across the street from the clothing market. In China there is less restriction on zoning so you’ll see mesh of commercial and residential buildings side by side.

Fresh fur with the animal head attached. These guys look like they came straight out of the jungle.

Here are pictures of models from the CHIC2008 clothing show (China International Clothing & Accessories Fair) in Beijing. Very innovative use of models. The above is half of the 20 models for this showcase. Below shows the other half. 20 sexy woman on stage at once, how can you go wrong.

This was a very interesting show. The walkway is a semi circle that wraps around the audience. Good mix of kids and adults. This brand doesn’t even have an English name which is rare.

The following are pictures from a brand called “Style Hong Kong”. Very creative name eh.

As there is a archetype of the Western cover model, (blond, blue eyes, big smile, curvy body) there’s also an archetypical Chinese model. It is skinny, gentle, soft, dark eyes, with youthful soft make-up and a small smile. I see this on magazine covers everywhere in China. Just like in the West I can’t really tell the cover models apart here either.

The models walked in zig zag patterns so everyone can see. Also smart use of badges that have the name of the item. This will help people place orders by reviewing their photographs.

Guys model too. Maybe they aren’t too popular or maybe it’s me selective photographing.

A kids brand called SSXY. Is it me or does this feel wrong?!?

These kids are so cute. They have been trained so well too. Very professional.

This last brand is my favourite use of models. There is a scene of six or seven models. They are all still. Then once every minute or so one of the models gets up and walks around showcasing their outfit. Then the model goes back to the original still position while in a little while another model gets up. I like this because it tells a story and the movement creates drama and interest. With only one model it guides your attention.

Here’s more pics from the CHIC2008 clothing show (China International Clothing & Accessories Fair) in Beijing.

Communist Party is cool. All Asian brands are western focus “me too” copy cats. Really nice to see a brand that have an element to the Chinese culture.

Nice Egyptian theme.

Chilling on the streets of Paris

Did their logo come before or after the Lion King musical?

Ideaido use fibre optics for its walls and build a dream like state.

A story and drama can be created with just manikins and creativity.

Snoppy has a clothing line? Licensing is a big business.

I don’t think Bon Jovi designs a Chinese clothing brand

Zorani – The women’s collection

The Chinese love foreign models I still got more pictures coming including some of really cute Chinese models. Like the West there is a ‘typical’ model look. I see it on all the magazines. Just like the West I can’t tell one cover model from the next.

CHIC clothing show (China International Clothing & Accessories Fair) is China’s version of MAGIC. MAGIC is North America’s largest clothing show where buyers and sellers meet. To compare the two I would simply describe it as this: Las Vegas is known for excess and larger than life but the Chinese did build the Great Wall!

The CHIC 2008 is China’s premiere clothing show and it’s already on its 16th show. It is the first event to be held in the New China International Exhibition Centre (NCIEC) with over 100,000 square metres. This was held from March 28-31, 2008. The NCIEC is Asia’s largest exhibition centre which started work in late 2001. It will host some of the Olympic Summer 2008 events. As I stare from outside it reminded me the Tian’anmen square with its large open space and wide structure. It conveys a sense of majesty and drama.

As I entered and started walking around I was quite taken away with the exhibits. This by far eclipses the show at MAGIC. The displays and areas were not that much larger than at MAGIC but the pure creativity and ingenuity was just spectacular. While at MAGIC it was one rectangular booth with wall enclosures and slightly different placements of table and chairs, each CHIC booth had a different theme and completely different layout with the table and chairs built into the theme.

This exhibit shows the non use of rectangular space. Two levels with a Greek island seashore villa theme.

This is Hazzys, a high end Chinese brand. Went with the simplicity design.

Nice concept in creating a 3D space.

The Chinese likes to knock off western brands. Does the Goldrooster logo reminds you of some other western brand?

Even the western brands were here like PONY. Let’s say they brought their close minded thinking MAGIC booth with them.

Kobron’s theme is an airport. Live models posing for pictures and showcasing their shirts all day long.

Simple concept manikins on the top level with vertical sliced photos on the bottom matched with the black shows a very powerful and authoritative feel.

Beijing is a depressing city. Right as I got out of the gates of the railway station at midnight, I raced with the thousands of other travelers to the street to catch a cab. At every turn I was harassed with solicitors. With a frown and a beaten down posture sadly holding a pamphlet as if they were bagging for change or showing a picture of their lost child. Instead it’s for a hotel or another service of some sort.

It looked more like a car pileup then a taxi line.

Finally I got to the cab area after brushing off eight or nine solicitors, but it is the same here. I can see a sea of cabs inches apart fighting for passengers. It looked more like a car pileup than a taxi line. Even then hustlers approach me and try to negotiate a fixed rate double or triple the actual cost of the trip.

As I was traveling during the day I got a better look at Beijing. It was a rainy day and I thought the poor visibility was caused by mist of the morning dew but only to realize it was the smog. All the buildings were tattooed in pollution and dirt, its windows bleeding with rust. Everywhere I look I see only grey rectangular buildings with grey rectangular balconies with grey rectangular doors and grey rectangular signs. The epitome of functional design with no respect paid to aesthetics. This reminds me of those Chinese food restaurants called something like “Wong’s Lucky Star Fast Yummy Tasty Fine Dining Chinese Food”

There is 48,000 sqm of exhibition space and over 1,100 exhibitors from 14 counties and regions.

I am here for the Intertextile Beijing Apparel Fabrics Fair March 27 – 29, 2008. It is China’s bi-annual gathering of fabric producers showcasing their latest technology and development. There is 48,000 sqm of exhibition space and over 1,100 exhibitors from 14 counties and regions. This is held in the old China International Exhibition Centre (CIEC). As you expected the CIEC consisted of large rectangular windowless buildings that looks like movie studios but the white pristine texture added a sense of cleanliness.

As I strolled around the fair I noticed a large exhibitor with bamboo stalk design. As I spoke to the agent I realized they mainly make their products out of nylon with only one bamboo nylon fabric. Bamboo is used very often for décor and design in the Chinese culture. I noticed this especially for restaurants. As I asked around I noticed not many Chinese fabric producers know of bamboo and even the information agent was perplexed about the fabric and couldn’t direct me to the any particular area. I did however meet a couple of suppliers that had a small offering of bamboo fabric.

…the most innovative use of bamboo is from a silk fabric company.

However the most innovative use of bamboo is from a silk fabric company. They developed a very nice silk bamboo composition fabric. I always liked the delicacy of silk but was worrisome of its fragility. With the bamboo it adds durability and softness while maintaining the sheen and airiness of silk. I can already think of a product this would be perfect for!

My journey back to China my birthplace started March 25th. This is a mission to learn more of the Chinese culture and seek inspiration for the Spring Summer 2009 collection. My trip takes me Qingdao a beautiful coastal city on the eastern edge of China. Qingdao city has been a German colony in the 19th century.

What really surprised me was how beautiful the city is. The buildings are absolutely perfect! All buildings in the city are German inspired and is well planned. While each building is designed differently with a sense of organic growth, there is a feel of a higher order. As if each building was built with relation to each out and a higher concept. You can see clearly see the amount of attention the designers paid to the architectural design from the air. Just a glance from and you’ll see the perfectly aligned and organized buildings. Colors are amazing and details magnificent. Scenic ocean mountains interlace the shoreline buildings and office towers. The view is perfect from any part of the city.

What also surprised me were that the Chinese got style. The trendsetting youths were well dressed and everything fits perfect and well pieced together. Maybe their style is a novelty and that’s why it looks good but either way I’m impressed. The style is western influenced. You can see the results of China opening to the world.

My trip takes me to Taidong the shopping centre of this rich city. As you can see there is a long strip with walking distance as wide as a four lane road. No cars are allow which makes for a very pleasure shopping experience. The street is at least one mile long with most high end Chinese brands. The shops are clean and very western.

Within the modern and high end shops of Taidong there is a hidden entrance to a clothes and fabric center which seems to have been hidden from the modernization of the centre. As you enter you will see many vendors hanging as much goods as they can. Cloths and poorly made clothes cruelly scattered all around in their tiny space. And if you dare to venture your way up the narrow stairs several floors to the top, you will find the fabric area. Each merchant stack as much as they can in their tiny five square metre area. And apparently they can stack quite a bit. Merchants squeeze tightly beside each other with no sunlight, it may seem worse than a prison. But everyone is in a pleasant mode and is having a good time as with the city as a whole.

This is the secret area where I found some amazing traditional designed silk and satin fabrics with the most gorgeous Asian patterns. You can see black and grey patterns with a splash of colour, vibrantly colour art prints, and the more muted tone on tone traditional patterns. On the wall you will be able to see some of the beautifully and delicately designed traditional Chinese art fabric. Time and modernization cannot outdate good design. This is exactly what I was seeking on this journey.